July 2024 Newsletter
Hilary Water’s Ryland Lambs!
Contents
Click on the text to jump to the section:
News from Association of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers
Upcoming Guild talks and other events
The London Cloth Company - a talk by Daniel Harris
Learning about regenerative farming at Fernhill Fibre Day
Rush Weaving with Brigitte Graham
Bethan Murray, a curator of Social History and Textiles at Somerset Heritage Museum
Lambing season in Wiveliscombe
Weaving high-welfare textiles with shepherd and wool-spinner Bec Briar
Join us for our 75th Anniversary Celebration
Spinning a Yarn - Telling The Story of Wool in Somerset
Enter Your Work in the Dorset Arts and Crafts Association showcase
Chairperson's message
The weather has been up and down for sure. Making the most of the garden and finally warm enough to get planting
A big thank you to all the committee who have pulled together and taken on roles to help with the smooth running of the Guild. As I have help from members with the library, kitchen and welcoming new members. The outside demonstrations are off the ground and the 2025 programme of speakers is well underway
June 15th saw the return of our Guild's Annual fleece Fair. We had an excellent day. One of the best I’ve seen! Thank you to everyone who made it such a great day.
July 20th meeting will be the "Weaving competition" with "Nature" as a theme. So still time to get planning and weaving. Making a few notes of what you have done is always helpful. More the merrier and any medium of weaving welcome. Brigitte our speaker for the day will be judging.
Looking ahead to our 75th Guild Anniversary on 17th August. Plans are in place. Anyone who would like to be involved and help out do get in touch via the Guild secretary.
We have a jam packed newsletter for you this month! Considering the time of year, it’s packed full of stories about sheep, shearing and so much more. Interesting, there’s two stories from Wiveliscombe!
Many thanks, Mandy stead
Committee members
Mandy Stead: Chairperson
Ian Waite: Honorary Treasurer
Norma Sanders: Honorary Secretary
Fleece Fair organiser: Mandy Stead and Sue Prosser
Programme organisers: Hilary Tudgee and Sophie Fovargue
Sue Prosser: Raffle
Lesley Took: Demonstration organiser
Kathy Wright: Tea/coffee rota
Georgina Vye: Facebook page administrator
Laura Tyley: website editor, newsletter editor and Facebook page administrator
Sue Latimer: website editor, membership secretary and equipment secretary
2024 competitions
We’re excited to have guest speakers judging all our competitions this year. Here are the upcoming dates:
Weaving competition on July 20th, judged by Brigitte Kaltenbacher.
Spinning competition on November 16th, judged by David Herring.
The theme for both competitions is nature. Get those creative ideas flowing! We look forward to seeing your creations.
Tea and Coffee Rota
July 20th
10.30 – 12.00 - Carol Mellish & Lia Jenkinson
12.00 – 1.45 - Laura Tyley
September 21st
10.30 – 12.00 - Sue Luty-Wells & Sarah Basham
12.00 – 1.45 - Paulett & Frances Fletcher
October 19th
10.30 – 12.00 - Juliet Johnstone & Liz Pickman
12.00 – 1.45 - Frances Nicholson & Karen Langford
November 16th
10.30 – 12.00 - Brenda Lawrence & Brenda Hamblin
12.00 – 1.45 - Sonia and Ian Waite
January 18th 2025
10.30 – 12.00 - Linda Robinson
12.00 – 1.45 - Frances Parlane
February 15th 2025
10.30 – 12.00 -Thalia Skeath
12.00 – 1.45 - Lyn Blower & Sue Prosser
Reserves: Sue Latimer, Tina Davis
News from Association of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers
The next AGWSD Summer School will be hosted in 2025. It will be at Queen Margaret University in Edinburgh. More information will be available soon.
As mentioned at previous Guild meetings and newsletters, the National Exhibition is coming up (‘Battles, Borders, Books’ 14th -27th October 2024 Hay on Wye). If you are planning to enter, Janet Maher has volunteered to take photos of submission items. If you are submitting, please bring your item to Guild meetings along with the form that accompanies the entry and the required feelie piece. The final date for entries to be with the exhibition committee is 24th July. This does mean if you are working on something that you will complete by the guild meeting on 20th July, we will still have time – just. The guild pays your entry fee.
Upcoming Guild talks and other events
July 20th: A discussion on Nettle Weaving with Brigitte Kaltenbacher. This is also the date of our nature-themed weaving competition - open to all members!
August 17th: The Somerset Guild’s 75th Anniversary Celebrations! This will be a wonderful celebration, open to the public. We have lots planned! We will begin promoting it after our Fleece Fair.
September 21st: Julie Hedges will talk about the origins and history of Ply-Split Braiding, give the Guild a demonstration, and share a display of work through the ages & on September 22nd Julie Hedges is running an one-day Ply Split Braiding workshop for 12 people (additional costs apply, please contact us to book onto the Sunday workshop). If you would like to book onto this workshop, please email secretary@somersetguildwsd.org.uk.
Other events:
Summer Wool Festival - 27th to 28th July 2024 at Redborne School in Ampthill near Bedford (MK45 2NU)
The Riches of Wool - 12th - 14th of July at Bicton College, Devon.
Wiltshire Guild Exhibition - 1st - 4th August 2024 Homegrown Textiles Steeple Ashton
Social Spinning in Stalbridge - last tuesday of the month 6-8pm at Guggleton Farm. Email lauratyley1@gmail.com for more information.
The London Cloth Company - a talk by Daniel Harris
Report by Sophia Fovargue (30/10/23) - 28th October 2023 (a late inclusion but a brilliant read!)
The title of the talk which Daniel Harris gave us was deceptive in so much as Daniel gave us the most inspirational talk which
embraced so many topics from weaving, looms, cloth manufacture, loom development during the Industrial Revolution and restoration of both a mill and looms,
the entire talk was punctuated throughout with amusing anecdotes and was totally captivating. Daniel described how, as a young degree Sewing Machinist Graduate he started his own business, The London Cloth Company in 2011 a small Micro-Mill in East London. He was soon producing the highest-end, bespoke woven cloth (mainly woollen) which he was selling to customers such as Hardy Amies, Ralph Lauren, Drakes, Daks Tiger of Sweden, High fashion labels and Independent brands, costume designers and artists as well as clients such as the International Space Station; as well as special commissions for film companies such as, Netflix and Disney. His woven cloth has featured in films such as “Star Wars” and “Napoleon”( a film by Ridley Scott). As if this was not impressive enough all the cloth had been produced on a series of historical looms rescued and brought back to working order. Daniel is obviously someone who loves a challenge as when his company was outgrowing his cramped London premises he bought a very neglected and dilapidated woollen mill in Wales in 2022; The Elvet Woolen Mill Cynwyl Elfed in Carmarthenshire. He is now gradually restoring the mill to full working order, a project he expects to take 10 to 20 years. Daniel was very clear, it would not be a Museum, but a working Mill, which he eventually hopes to open to the public for booked small tours to see the weaving process and training experiences.
Weaving Looms
Daniel purchased his first historical loom from an old barn in rural Wales; he admits he knew nothing about either weaving or the working of historical looms and he naively thought he would need no further equipment than a small bobbin winder. What is so impressive is how quickly Damiel taught himself not only about all aspects of weaving, but also the maintenance and repair of the various historical looms he proceeded to purchase. The historical looms he purchased from all around the country were usually rusty and no longer in working order, often missing important parts and were really no more than scrap metal, they were frequently in very inaccessible places and machinery such as cranes had to be hired to access them, they
frequently had to be dismantled to be moved and reassembled and repaired to working order. It often took two looms to make one fully repaired working loom by borrowing parts from one. He soon discovered he also needed a Pirin Wider, a Creel, a Cone Winder and a Warping Mill. Daniel told us he now has various working looms which date from1870’s to1960’s and include a Dobycross, Box Loom, Rapier Loom and a Dickinson and Butterworth Loom. Daniel now owns 28 historic working (antique and vintage) working looms which eventually will all be installed in the new premises in Wales. He now has the largest collection of antique and vintage working looms in the whole of the UK!
The Welsh Woolen Industry
In the year 1900, there were 325 working woollen mills in the Counties of Ceredigion, Carmarthenshire and Pembrookshire in Wales. Today across the whole of Wales there are just seven mills left in full operation. The Teifi Valley was a particularly important centre for the woollen industry at the turn of the last century; much of this history is now displayed and preserved at The National Wool Museum of Wales in Dre-fach Felindre. The complete process of cloth production cannot be done in Wales as there is no longer a Spinning Mill or a Finishing /Fulling Mill. For these processes the wool or cloth has to be sent to other areas of the UK. Daniel tries to use “Homegrown” wool for all his cloth, but by Homegrown he means produced in the UK, it simply is not realistic to use all local Welsh wool, most of the Welsh breeds are hill sheep and they have been interbred for meat production not wool production. Daniel’s loom weave mainly Wool, but also Cotton, Linen and recently even Seacell as well as a number of very unusual fibres..
The Elvet Woolen Mill, Cynwyl Elfed, Carmarthenshire.
The Building at Cynwyl Elfed dates from 1840, initially it was a tannery. Its use changed to a woollen Mill in 1895 when the Jones family purchased the site and ran it as a woollen mill family business until 1960’s when it was sold to a Mike Talbot who continued to run it as a Woolen Mill until Daniel purchased it. Surprisingly considering the building's age and cultural importance the building is not listed. It is of great credit to Mike Talbot that the weaving business is to continue in this historic building as he had offers far in excess of what Daniel could afford if he had been prepared for it to see the use of the mill changed to domestic or an alternative commercial use.
Daniel described how dilapidated the Mill is, no maintenance or repairs had been done for years and what was done was very make-shift bodge jobs. The Mill is situated in a beautiful valley with trees and a river running past, originally the mill had its own water wheel , which sadly was lost some years ago, although early photographs still show the wheel. In other ways the mill is rather like a “Time Capsule” with little changing since the 1930’s. When Daniell took it over the building was ivy clad and grown over, the yard was buried under inches of soil and most of the 27 windows at the front of the building were broken and boarded up and the guttering and downpipes almost non-existent. The loft was insulated with old Hessian Sacks, which mice had for years made their home! However the looms, wool and business records were still in situ and present a fascinating history of the place.
The restoration process is a slow and arduous job, which will happen gradually as funds become available, doors and windows need repairing or replacing. At the back of the building where faulty guttering poured water into the building water damage requires new rafters and roof trusses. The roof is of Welsh Slate, but has never been insulated , however in most other respects generally is in satisfactory repair (with the aforementioned exception). However things like the electrics, plumbing date from the 1930’s. Amazingly there were never any drains or septic tanks installed for the mill. As Daniel commented, the Health and Safety issues are mega. However Daniel seems completely unfazed by the enormous task ahead of him and is energised and excited by the challenge.
The Future
The London Cloth Company continues to produce bespoke cloth (although now from Wales). Daniel is now such an expert in the restoration of old looms, so that a considerable amount of this income now comes from his “consultancy work” to Museums and Heritage centres around the country and even as far flung places as as Majorca . He plans to have four looms dedicated to weaving Welsh patterns for items such as blankets. He also produces bespoke table linen for Michelin starred restaurants. While Daniel’s old looms are far slower than modern commercial looms they are far more versatile and are real workhorses which can deal with a multitude of different fibres, This is how he ended up producing a fine wire wool cloth for the International Space Station to create Electro-Magnetic vests which could be turned on and off as required (modern looms simply could not have coped with the highly abrasive spun wire wool which was used.) It was a similar situation when Weaving with Optical Fibres for a film. Not only will these heritage looms cope with many different fibres where modern looms are fibre specific but they also have the advantage of being adaptable to produce a relatively short run of fabric ( 20 metres), which is ideal for bespoke one off orders. The versatility of these old looms also allowed him to produce indigo dyed Ikat cloth, by taking the warp beams outside into the yard and applying the dye to the warp, they were then able to proceed with weaving even though the yarn was still damp! Daniel has even adapted and cut down the width of one loom to weave small Sample lengths of cloth for prospective customers.
I am sure I am not alone in finding Daniel’s talk incredibly inspiring, his energy, enthusiasm and optimism against great odds was remarkable; as is his ability to adapt and learn new skills. The talk was captivating and because of Daniel’s charm and sense of humour also very amusing.
Thank you to Daniel and the Guild Organizers for giving us such a treat. Perhaps the Guild could think of organising a “Field Trip” to Daniel’s Mill once he is able to accommodate visitors?
Learning about regenerative farming at Fernhill Fibre Day
An interview with Brenda Hamblin, written by Laura Tyley (01/05/23)
Nestled atop the Mendip Hills lies Fernhill Farm with its Shetland-cross sheep, Aberdeen Angus beef cattle and woodland pigs. Andy Wear, Jennifer Hunter and their two boys Kyle and Seth are the first-generation farmers here after Andy found this derelict ancient site in 1997. The site and Jen and Andy’s forward-thinking approach are fast becoming a beacon for shepherding, farming and fibre production that’s good for people, place and animals.
Their Fernhill Fibre Experience, held on Saturday, March 16th, was a celebration of all that they do; including blade shearing, regenerative farming, and their quality wool. Visitors were welcomed to explore the farm's holistic approach to agriculture, discovering the journey from farm to yarn. From blade-shearing demonstrations and farm tours to craft workshops and informative talks, there was something for everyone to enjoy. Central to the day was the Fernhill Fleece Sale, where freshly blade shorn fleeces were available for purchase. Workshops in spinning, weaving, and wool handling provided hands-on learning opportunities, complemented by blade shearing workshops that offered insights into traditional techniques.
At Fernhill Farm, sustainability is replaced with regeneration. As a registered regenerative farm, rather than sustaining things as they are, they are actively regenerating, Andy and Jen work tirelessly to ensure the way they’re farming is constantly improving the local landscape and local food and fibre system. One shining example is their mob grazing practice, where large herds of sheep are rotated to fresh pasture every few days. This approach ensures that the land and the sheep remain healthy, promoting biodiversity, healthy varied diets for the sheep, whilst also enhancing soil health. Animal welfare and land welfare are equally high on the agenda. Their mob grazing technique has ensured that even in droughts, there’s always grass. Andy and Jen pride themselves on minimal inputs, their sheep spend the majority of their lives on biodiverse grass alone. Additionally, Fernhill Farm's reed bed water system showcases their commitment to regeneration. All water from the farm is pumped up to six ponds filled with reeds and bulrushes, nature purifiers! It’s syphoned through, cleaned and returned to the farm for re-use. When you consider how much water is used in agriculture, this really is a revolutionary (but ancient and completely natural) system.
Let’s talk about their fleeces! Shetland-cross sheep are selectively bred for fine colourful fibre, mature meat qualities, hardiness and their ability to restore biodiversity when continually grazing in larger nomadic-style flocks. At Fernhill, the ancient technique of blade shearing is employed, which is gentler on the sheep. Unlike electric shearing, blade shearing leaves about half a centimetre (or slightly more) of wool on the sheep, preserving the lanolin layer that keeps them warmer and waterproof. This method is quieter and less rushed, reducing stress for the sheep and resulting in fewer second cuts. The fleece is nicer to spin as most of the thick lanolin layer is left on the sheep.
After shearing, the fleeces are meticulously sorted by Jen. Typically, she sets aside about 15% of the fleeces for spinners and then re-examines them to select an additional 1% for this purpose. Spinners can use the wool straight from the bag or wash it first. The fleeces are skirted and of high quality. Jen checks each fleece for any weaknesses or breaks, often caused by pregnancy, illness, or stress. Those with breaks are repurposed for peg looming. Fernhill Farm produces its own yarn and sliver, ensuring that only the best quality fleeces are retained. Any unsuitable wool is sent to the wool board, and daggings, which are perfect as a garden mulch, are bagged up and available for visitors to take home with them in return for donations which will support young blade shearers. Jen takes great pride in her reputation for providing high-quality fleeces, and her dedication is evident in every aspect of the process.
A tremendous amount of effort goes into producing Fernhill's fleeces. Their unique selling approach meant that only a few coloured fleeces remained at the end of the sale, with many customers favouring the greys. Fernhill Farm is also an educational hub, hosting numerous interns from institutions such as Loughborough and Central Saint Martins. These interns, who are typically focused on textiles, gain valuable insights into wool as a renewable resource, an aspect often overlooked in their studies.
When our demonstrators were at Bath and West, Andy was awarded a master shearer award. The commentator mentioned that 20 years ago blade shearing tournaments were nearly axed from the Bath and West because they had so few entrants. It was because of Andy and a couple other passionate blade shearers that this traditional craft remained on the programme at Bath and West. This year their blade shearing tournaments were oversubscribed with a number of young shearers trained by Andy. Not only are they forward thinking farmers, they’re preserving cultural heritage and passing traditional skills onto the next generation.
There are a number of events at Fernhill throughout the year and their fleeces are available to buy onsite in their shop (Fernhill Farm, Cheddar Road, Compton Martin, Somerset, BS40 6LD) or online fernhillfibre.co.uk.
Rush Weaving with Brigitte Graham
Brigitte Graham joined us for a discussion on Rush Weaving at the May Guild meeting. Thank you to Sue Latimer for taking notes.
Brigitte initially trained as an Occupational Therapist, but then developed other skills, restoring antique chairs. She was able to learn business skills through the Enterprise scheme, and has now run her own business for 39 years, proving the bank manager wrong, who doubted the viability of this.
Rushes are harvested from the River Isle near Isle Abbotts and Isle Brewers, alongside about eight other rush weavers from the Basket Makers Association They divide the harvest between them. True bulrushes are used, not reed mace. Several different rushes may confusingly have the common name of bulrush. It is a very renewable user-friendly material, but does need to actually get into the water to harvest it, as it is impossible to get the full length of stem needed from a boat. Ideally would harvest every other year, to give the plant time to feed the roots, but if left uncut the Environment Agency would cut them anyway. Colour variation comes from the pale green where the rush has been submerged in the water. Flooding and cold weather in the spring can delay the harvest. Rushes are heavy, 2 people use a sling to lift the bolt. Once on the bank, the reeds are sorted and any kinked ones rejected, only used if harvest is poor. A bolt weighs approx. 1 kg, enough for an average sized chair. 30” diameter. 12” back from the butt end, 3 ties spaced along the length. Dried upright the rushes will be untied and rearranged every few days to dry evenly.
Brigitte demonstrated how she weaves the different styles of seats, having adapted a bar stool for the right height stand to work at, and a roller to squish air out of the pith.
Alternatives to rush for seating: Sea grass has more twist so it is more difficult to pull this tight. Harsher to work with. Cane may squeak when sitting down on this. May need a cushion.
Brigitte contributed two chapters to the book Rush Basketry: Weaving with Eight Makers
Bethan Murray, a curator of Social History and Textiles at Somerset Heritage Museum
Bethan Murray, curator of Social History and Textiles at Somerset Heritage Museum, joined us at the March Guild Meeting to discuss. Thank you to Sue Latimer for taking notes.
The reserve collection is held at Norton Fitzwarren, and contains 8000 textile items from the late 18th to late 20th century. It is available to visit but by appointment only. Email Sue via secretary@somersetguildwsd.org.uk if you would be interested in a visit. Numbers may be limited.
Fashion items are stored with the fine art collection, so that the environment and pests can be controlled. Rarely displayed in the museums as conservation is expensive for the charitable trust. Good support is needed for whole items when handling or moving, to prevent damage. Currently nitrile gloves are preferred for handling as cotton gloves can catch on beads etc.
Recommended storage
on padded coat hangers if fabric is robust. A calico cover will protect against dust
acid free box / tissue paper if the item is fragile or small. This may be best if storing at home. Support all creases which are vulnerable and may be fragile
Banners and friendly society quilts. Roll onto acid free tubes, cover with acid free tissue paper supported by Velcro straps which cause less pressure
Bethan talked about items in the 2022-23 exhibition, Changing World - the changes to the clothes and outfits that we wear, looking at traditions, developments with technology, media influences and societal changes reflecting changes in female roles during and after the first World War, and with rationing,66 coupons per year, 2 needed for stockings but 11 for a dress. Fabric and buttons were also restricted. The utility brand was created, practical and serviceable but more colourful and fun than expected. Some may remember Chapman’s department store, linked to French designers, which became Debenhams in Taunton (also consigned to history), or Pearsall's Gossamer silks in Taunton ( a recent collection acquisition)
The owner or wearer’s stories are important to give context to the textile e.g. Kathleen Tacchi Morris (arts centre in Taunton), dancer and Peace Demonstrator, Ethel Mary Doble a VAD nurse from Evercreech and Dorothy Maud Hall from West Chinnock. Wedding dresses were often coloured as more practical if the wearer would be working. The display mannequin needed to have an extra tiny waist for some.
Men’s and ladies clothes have been collected, childrens clothes are in the North Somerset Museum collection.
There are samplers from the Quaker School at Milverton, used for showing skills for work, simple monochrome mostly silk onto red or black linen
Lambing season in Wiveliscombe
An interview with Hillary Waters, written by Laura Tyley (05/2024)
Just outside of Wiveliscombe, our smallholding is bustling with spring activity. Our flock of Ryeland sheep, which started as white Ryelands, has now expanded to include a delightful mix of white and coloured Ryelands. Currently, we have 14 lambs and 18 ewes, bringing our numbers to over 30. We began with just six sheep and a ram, but our flock has grown significantly over the years.
Our journey with Ryelands began quite serendipitously. We visited the Bath and West Show with my daughters and granddaughter to look at Jacobs sheep. When we arrived at the Jacobs pens, I asked my granddaughter, "What do you think of these?" One of the sheep charged at her, and she, being only four at the time, turned to me and said, "Granny, no horns." We moved on and encountered the cuddly Ryelands. They won our hearts immediately. Ryelands are like the Labradors of the sheep world, running up to you to say hello, just like affectionate dogs.
For many pedigree sheep breeders, wool quality hasn't always been a priority. However, there's a growing community dedicated to improving Ryeland wool, and occasionally, we find a fleece that's simply exceptional. Ryeland wool is perfect for beginners. It has a good length, and you can spin it fine or chunky. While it might not be the softest, it's hard-wearing, making it ideal for outer sweaters or fisherman’s coats, and it's excellent for Aran sweaters.
I grew up in a knitting family in the London suburbs, where even my brother knitted. Our journey from flock to spinning was born out of a simple philosophy: "I've got the wool, so I will do something with it." Initially, I had little understanding of how long it takes to process a single fleece. I find it hard to part with the wool for the meagre amount the wool board offers, so I'm generous in giving it away. Once, after buying a ram from a friend, I returned home with two extra fleeces. Really, do I need more?!
Lambing season this year has been one of the toughest we've faced, as it has been for many. The persistent rain added to our challenges, making it crucial to keep the lambs dry and well. This year, there was a shortage of hay and straw due to last summer's weather, making things even more fraught. With good quality hay scarce and rain pouring, we were often in a state of panic, relying heavily on expensive bagged feed. At one point, we were wading through bogs to care for the sheep. Putting them in the fields would have destroyed the grass, so they stayed in the barns much longer than usual. One thing is certain: our Ryelands don't like the rain. If there's a dry spot to be found, that's where they'll be!
A virus going around claimed one lamb, and sadly, we also lost two ewes—one old and another due to an accident. We're taking a break from lambing next year, as we typically lamb every other year to prevent the flock from growing too quickly. The safe arrival of the final set of twins at the end of April was a bit of a mixed blessing. Mum had no milk so now they are being bottle fed and will remain as pets as they have been claimed by the grandchildren!
Despite the emotional and physical challenges, this season has been a significant learning experience. I have immense respect for those who make a living from sheep farming. For me, it's a beloved hobby.
Weaving high-welfare textiles with shepherd and wool-spinner Bec Briar
An article shared in the Landworkers Alliance magazine with local weaver Bec Briar
[Text copied from Landworkers Alliance newsletter]
Before Christmas, we spoke to LWA member Bec Briar, The Woven Briar, a shepherd, spinner and weaver living between the Quantock Hills and Exmoor. In this article, she explains what drew her to raising sheep, the values that guide her hand as a shepherd and worker of wool, and how welfare – of her sheep, of the land, and of workers around the world – is central to her story.
“It’s quite a leap to give up any form of sort of, steady income and go sit in a field with a bunch of sheep and trust that it’s going to be okay”, says Bec Briar from her rented workshop on the edge of Exmoor, where she was busy preparing products from high-welfare, blade shorn wool for the Christmas season.
It’s where her loom lives, where she weaves scarves and blankets by hand, and where she teaches workshops in heritage skills like wool-spinning, weaving and natural dyeing using fleeces and plants from the farm. It’s also on the land where she raises 61 (at the time of interview) primitive and heritage sheep, bred for their wool quality – Shetland and Icelandics, as well as rare breed Portlands and Exmoor Horns.
In 2019, Bec bought some land with a barn in West Somerset with her husband Dru, who she met through a mental-health focused, non-profit woodland project they were running north of Bristol. She was determined to live a life that felt honest, ethical, kind and low impact, but becoming a sheep farmer caught her by surprise. Woodland-management and community had always been her focus, but when she brought a few sheep onto her smallholding in the early days, she fell in love: “Sheep took my interest more than anything I’d done before.”
“All my sheep have names – the ones we eat are all called ‘Dave’. All our friends know the ‘Dave’ system. It just makes it easier for everyone.”
Bec offers her customers ultimate traceability on her wool products – many of the weaves are named for the individual sheep that grew the wool; “All my sheep have names – the ones we eat are all called ‘Dave’. All our friends know the ‘Dave’ system. It just makes it easier for everyone.” High welfare, a short supply chain and textiles free of microplastics make these products a sustainable and ethical choice; “ They can be composted back to the earth once they are no longer used!” The story in the wool is important to Bec, and she’s keen to connect her customers to the origin of her products, the plants and soil that grew them and the land where they were raised.
Bec and Dru are planting trees and herbs for a variety of uses, many species have several uses, including for making natural inks, dying wool, culinary uses and of course for forage for their animals and wildlife. “We are creating more habitat through the planting of hedgerows, wildlife ponds, a food forest and orchard, and native woodland spaces. We regularly see deer, owls and kestrels, bats and other creatures grazing or hunting through the wildflower swathes and uncut meadow grass. We always leave areas ungrazed for the mice and voles that our barn owls feed from.” Bec keeps low stock numbers, and manages her sheep in a holistic way to regenerate soils and, inspired and taught by the folks at Fernhill Farm, shears all of her sheep by hand using blade shears.
“It is a slower process in which the shearer and I can take the time we need to look over the animals and check they are healthy and well, and the shearer has the time to get the very best out of the fleeces.”
Working with Michael, her shearer, who Bec says has taught her alot, her sheep are shawn in the early Spring, before lambing, not only to reduce any negative impact on the sheep, but to improve the welfare of the animals and their young. “We shear before lambing so that the ewes can lamb free of heavy, wet, dirty, uncomfortable fleece. I then get a better fleece before it declines in quality as resources go to producing milk.”
Hand shearing leaves a layer of wool rich in lanolin on the animal which stops them being exposed to the elements. “It is a slower process in which the shearer and I can take the time we need to look over the animals and check they are healthy and well, and the shearer has the time to get the very best out of the fleeces.”
“If a sheep has a bad Summer, if it has a bad lambing, if it’s treated badly, if it’s not given the right quality grass, you read it in the fleece. I have to look after them as best I can.”
Sheep welfare is not only important to Bec because she knows each animal by name, but because it has a direct impact on her products – the quality of her wool products, the length of the wool, it’s softness and ‘crimp’ are all affected by the health of the sheep; “If a sheep has a bad Summer, if it has a bad lambing, if it’s treated badly, if it’s not given the right quality grass, you read it in the fleece. I have to look after them as best I can”.
Welfare is central to Bec’s work, not only for her sheep and the land they live on, but also for workers in the textile industry around the world. Before Bec was a shepherd, she worked for Labour Behind the Label, a workers cooperative campaigning to improve conditions and empower workers in the global garment industry, and has a very alive interest in workers rights, slave labour, factory conditions and systemic human rights abuses in the wasteful, ‘throwaway’ clothing industry.
“The garment industry turns over almost $3 Trillion a year. Yet garment workers, 80% of them women, work for poverty pay, earning as little as £68 a month. Poverty wages, long hours, forced overtime, unsafe working conditions, sexual, physical and verbal abuse, repression of trade union rights and short term contracts are all commonplace in the clothing industry.”
– Labour Behind the Label
Though Bec understands that her products are privileged way to get clothing, she is exploring ways to help people make better decisions about where their clothes come from, and promote localised, regenerative textiles, that provide for local farmers’ livelihoods, made of the land; “I can turn grass into beautiful handwoven textiles.” She wants to offer long-lasting, high-quality and truly sustainable, locally-produced clothing that comes from the soil and will go back to the soil when it wears out – with no microplastics, little embedded carbon and no abuses of human rights.
Bec is clearly very skilled, passionate and has worked hard to be respected in an industry dominated by men. “I’ve had to show that I’m working hard. I assumed because I was a woman that I would have to work harder to get respect from some of the older farmers who’ve been here for generations…but I can reverse a trailer as well as anyone!” Bec feels like she has now been warmly welcomed into the sheep farming community “I feel like they’ve warmed to us in a way that I couldn’t have expected. If I have an issue with one of my sheep, if it’s out of hours for the vet, I can phone one of the traditional farmers in the area and they’ll be there in a flash”. But she has faced similar challenges to many of our members trying to build agroecological businesses on the land and live true to their values and beliefs. Planning regulations have been a major barrier for Bec and Dru being able to live on their land, describing planning disputes as a “massive cloud over us at all times”.
Bec says that in the face of strong opposition to what they were trying to do from neighbours and planners, she sought in the Landworkers Alliance a community that she didn’t need to explain herself to, who shared her values and validated that they were good ones; “I needed a community of people where I didn’t need to explain why living in a caravan with a compost toilet is an okay way of life – where I can learn more about land rights movements across the world and different land uses across the world, different ways of managing land.”
“There’s a mosaic of all these different ways of accessing this lifestyle, and the LWA feels like it represents them. I don’t feel like I have a voice or quite know enough to campaign, but being a (LWA) member means means I can support the campaign work that’s happening for workers, and particularly landworkers around the world”
Bec is very happy and willing to chat to anyone over a cuppa who is thinking of venturing into sheep farming or working with wool. “That’s why I joined the LWA really, for that support when I was getting started”. Talk to as many people as possible, she suggests, “find people who know more than you and listen”, and maybe think about keeping another income on the side, at least in the beginning, to give you a bit of breathing space; “If you can do accountancy on the side, try and keep that for a little while.”
If you’d like to reach out to Bec for more advice, or find out more about her story and her hand-woven scarves, sheepskin rugs, yarns, fleeces, craft kits and plant dyes head over to her website, and you can find out more about Bec’s upcoming workshops here. If you’re in West Somerset and would like to go along and help out with shearing, Bec extends a warm welcome: “Having someone there that I can say “Woah, shut that gate” is so helpful!”.
Fleece Fair Reviews
Some comments shared about the Fleece Fair on our Facebook group:
“I just wanted to thank everybody involved in the Fleece Fair today. It was the best ever, with wonderful fleece and cakes and a lovely atmosphere.”
“My first visit to a fleece fair and was made very welcome. Love the Leicester Longwool fleece that I bought and looking forward to spinning it. Thanks all.”
“Wonderful fleece fair. What a friendly atmosphere. Well done Mandy and everyone who helped.”
“Everyone was lovely and welcoming”
“A very busy buzzing fair. Thank you”
“Such a good fleece fair, thank you!”
“It was so good to see so many visitors from as far away as Yorkshire Guild. Thanks to all the organisers.”
Guild Notices
Join us for our 75th Anniversary Celebration
We’re thrilled to invite you to celebrate a remarkable milestone with us – the 75th anniversary of the Somerset Guild of Weavers, Spinners, and Dyers! Mark your calendars for August 17th, 2024, from 10:30 AM to 4:00 PM at Hatch Beauchamp Village Hall (TA3 6SG).
What’s Happening:
Live Demonstrations: See our talented members in action as they spin, weave, prepare fleece, and blend fibres.
Try It Yourself: Get hands-on with our crafts and discover the joy of spinning and weaving.
Historical Archives: Explore our journey through the decades with a special archive display.
Member Creations: Admire the stunning work of our members in our exhibition.
Shopping Stalls: Shop for beautiful fibres, yarns, prepared tops, and handcrafted items.
Delicious Refreshments: Enjoy tea, coffee, cake and light lunches throughout the day.
If you would like to be involved, please email Mandy secretary@somersetguildwsd.org.uk. Signing up sheets will be available at the July Meeting. We’ll send a poster via email shortly! If you’re on Facebook, you can RSVP here. Share a website link with friends here.
Guild Library
A huge thank you from the Chair and committee to Sarah and Sue for sorting the library and coordinating it so well.
The Guild Library will be open between 10.30 am and 11.30am at most meetings.
Thank you to all who have signed up to the rota. There are a few spaces left so if you feel you can spare an hour please add your name to the rota which can be found on the meetings notice board, located at the front of the hall on the stage.
Books and magazines are available for monthly loan, a small charge of 25 pence per book will be made for late returns. Extensions are possible for books that are not on a waiting list.
There are a variety of books covering topics such as spinning, weaving, dyeing, knitting, felting, general crafts and textiles and various magazine titles from previous 2 years to current issues.
Some of the books are becoming quite valuable and some are no longer in print so please take care of them.
It would be very helpful if you could replace your returns in the correct section.
It is only possible to carry a certain number of books due the weight and ability to manoeuvre the library trolley. A wider range of books is available from the Stuart Groom Memorial Library at Trowbridge, these can be borrowed by visiting in person or by post, for further details; wsd.org.uk
Some bundles of back-dated magazines will be entered into the guild raffle, so do buy a ticket.
Facebook group update
Our community Facebook Group now has over 100 members! It’s wonderful to see the chatter continue outside of Guild meetings.
Vikki Haffenden shared the following via the group:
“Following up on Brigitte Graham's fascinating talk about rush weaving at our last meeting. Brigitte kindly gave me a handful of rushes and suggested I weave a mat to see if I enjoyed it. I took her advice and have produced this somewhat
tatty looking 8 inch table mat, but I must say I rather enjoyed the process and I might try and do some more of this. We have some rush seated chairs that are well past their sell by date and I thought after a few more practices I'd start trying to reseat the worst one of those. Not at the moment because we've got lots of building work in the house and the garden requires attention, but perhaps in the autumn.``
Scams on our Facebook group
Please be aware that there are some very convincing scams being shared on our Facebook groups. We’re doing our best to be vigilant and report/delete them but please keep an eye out.
This is one we found. The best way to avoid scams is to never buy anything from someone on Facebook who you can’t meet in person. Avoid bank transfers, sending any card details, paypal, etc. If they’re pushing you to buy it before it arrives/you collect it - it’s likely a scam. Cash is the safest option.
Email delivery problems
We are aware that not all email seems to get through, it seems to be mostly a problem with BT addresses. Do you know anyone who isn’t getting some email? Several BT email addresses bounced back from the last AGSWD Exhibition newsletter sent on Tues 28th May. Norma discovered a fix, which worked when Sue applied it via windows / outlook. Contact secretary@somersetguildwsd.org.uk or speak to me at a meeting if you think there is still a problem with this. Sue Latimer
Spinning a Yarn - Telling The Story of Wool in Somerset
This Somerset Art Works project focuses on Wool, with an exhibition, large scale installation and film, opening in September 2024 at the Somerset Rural Life Museum Glastonbury, with project partners South West Heritage Trust. A programme of events for community outreach, school workshops and talks will also take place.
Artists Lydia Needle and Nina Gronw-Lewis have created 4 worksheets that will help you learn about Somerset's rare and endangered species as well as different wool crafts including: needle felt, wet felt, punch needle and applique with stitch.
They are running workshops with different groups, or you can take part at home. Participants are invited to contribute their work to be part of an exhibition at the Somerset Rural Life Museum in September as part of Somerset Art Weeks Festival. Find out more here or in the poster below.
If you would like your work to be part of an exhibition at the Somerset Rural Life Museum in September as part of Somerset Art Weeks Festival. Please send your completed pieces to ACEarts, Market Place, Somerton, Somerset TA117NB by 31 August 2024. Max dimensions 20cm x 20cm.
DISCLAIMER: Due to the nature of this project, we are unable to return any work after the event. Please note we may not be able to accommodate all the works submitted.
Find out more at www.spinning-a-yarn.org or ask Laura Tyley lauratyley1@gmail.com & 07807055015 who is in touch with the organisers and can try to answer any questions.
Wool Washing & Carding
A message from Neil Bookless booklessn@gmail.com:
Just a quick note to let you know about an exciting opportunity that may be of interest to you and your members.
In 2024 Cara Bookless (Of Mid Essex WSD Guild & Felsted Fleece) and her husband Neil will begin development of a brand new £500,000 Wool Scour and Woollen Mill, able to process any quantity of wool fibre, from 2kg / a single fleece, upwards. Fibres can be delivered in person or posted, by prior agreement...
The Scour will do all of the hard work for you; washing and opening your fleece fibres for £14 per kg, leaving you with only the fun bits left to do!
If you would like the fibres washed and carded into a Batt, up to 40 cm (16”) wide, suitable for spinning or Dyeing, this can be done for £30 per kg.
From mid 2025 the Felsted Mill will also be able to produce both Woollen Slivers, suitable for hand spinning, as well as semi-worsted (Combed) Tops, for £33 per kg (Washed, Carded & Combed).
If you would like to help support development of this project and you are able to pay for processing now, but you can wait up to 12-months before you get the processed fibres back, then:
Any money you pay before 1st July 2024, Cara will offer you a 50% discount off the above prices, for any quantity.
If you can pay between 1st July and 1st October 2024, Cara will offer you a 33% discount.
Cara explained: “We are close to getting a grant for some of the cost of setting up the Scour, and we are lucky enough to be able to remortgage our home to raise the match funding, if necessary. However, if you will find the service useful and are willing to wait, we will prefer to share the benefits with you, rather than pay the City Bankers their next bonus…”
To reserve a processing slot or to find out more, please see our website or contact us, no obligation booklessn@gmail.com and www.felstedfleece.co.uk
Enter Your Work in the Dorset Arts and Crafts Association showcase
One for anyone who lives in or close to Dorset! In 1906, a small exhibition was held at Hinton St Mary and its success led to the formation of the Dorset Arts and Crafts Association in 1907. The Association's first exhibition was held at Blandford Corn Exchange in 1907 and exhibitions have been held annually, apart from a break for the second world war years. Our 100th Exhibition was held at the Purbeck School, Wareham in 2014.
Their 2024 showcase which will be hosted at Purbeck School, Wareham on the 2nd – 6th August 2024 is now open for entries. Their Craft, Fine Art and Photography competitions are open to everyone resident in Dorset. Anyone living outside Dorset can enter work providing they are Associate Members of DACA. Entry into judged competitions is open to all, irrespective of your level of experience or expertise. Find out more at www.dorsetartsandcrafts.org.
Programme Organiser Volunteer
Would you like to join the Guild committee and take on the exciting role of organising our guest speakers? We’re looking for a new volunteer to join in 2025. This role involves getting to know a wonderful number of inspiring artists, crafters and producers. Please email secretary@somersetguildwsd.org.uk if you would like to find out more.
Marketing volunteer
Do you know a young person in Somerset who would like to learn some marketing skills? The Guild has the exciting opportunity to offer a volunteer some hands-on experience and mentorship from our current volunteer. They will work alongside Laura who has a lot of marketing experience. It would look great on a CV. Activities include helping to put together the quarterly newsletter, writing Guild social media posts, designing simple graphics and updating the website. The position would be great for a young person passionate about the environment and/or textiles. If you know someone who's interested, please ask them to email lauratyley1@gmail.com.
Next Newsletter
If you would like to be interviewed for the next newsletter or, even better, if you’d be happy to write something for the next newsletter, please email lauratyley1@gmail.com.
Recent demonstrations
It’s been a busy month of demonstrations for Guild members! We’ve been at the Envirofair in Stoke St Gregory, organised by the Stoke Environment Group and the Bath and West show!
Would you like to spend a day or half a day demonstrating your skill in spinning or weaving at local fairs? If so please email secretary@somersetguildwsd.org.uk and we will forward your reply to Lesley Took who is coordinating this. Even if you are a beginner, you will learn from others and know more than most of the public who come up to ask. Yes there are three events on one busy day.
Somerset Guild have been invited to the following upcoming event: Saturday 20th - Sunday 21st July Somerset Steam and Country show Low Ham, Langport
The advantage of Demonstrating is that you get into the show for free and that there is free parking. You do not need to do a whole day and there will be time (if enough of you offer) that you will be available to wander around the shows and view what is on offer.
Please let us know if you will be willing to help out asap.
Skills Day Photos
Photo by Sue Thompson and Sue Latimer
Items for sale
